Not Achin' At All

An all-day push to the western region of South Carolina brought me to an Airbnb suite in a nice neighborhood with a busy, young family. I was avoiding the coast as it’s high season, and there was Aiken – a name I recognized but a place I’ve never been. 

My only regret now is that I’d only booked 4 days. While not bikable (though I did, and it could be), Aiken is a lovely little surprise. The heart of town is well-preserved; there is an immense amount of green space for walking, horseback riding, and sheer relaxation; and southern hospitality is more than a marketing statement. With the exception of the equestrian focus, I knew very little about this small town’s history and culture, and put in 10-hour days enjoying it. 

Chartered in 1835, Aiken was named for the president of the South Carolina Railway, the world’s longest railroad in 1833 that was transporting cotton and tobacco to the port in Charleston. Today, the town has a population of just 30,000, but the County covers more than 1,000 square miles with nearly 170,000 people. They’ve brilliantly pushed the chain stores and restaurants to one area in South Aiken, as the historic homes, Main street area, and abundance of green space are well preserved. 

During the 1800’s, Aiken was a health resort for coastal residents and a winter colony for northerners such as the Vanderbilts, the Whitneys, the Astors, and others. Hence, when riding, foxhunting, polo, tennis and golf appeared, as well as their “cottages” of 20+ rooms. Without venturing more than 5 miles from “home”, my agenda was full with a few items simply crossed off the list on my final day! Regionally, there’s lakes and ponds, Audubon trails, Beech Island (the final home of James Brown), a 9-mile water trail, and the North Augusta Greenway for cycling. 

I’d love to say that this is a hidden little secret but two of the three people I chatted with were transplants from Rochester and Charlotte via Florida. That said, I didn’t see the signs of cookie-cutter development and housing doesn’t come cheap.  Aiken – a delightful stop on the journey.