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In Westport, Ontario, Canada

My original plan was to be in Canada for July and August, but finding affordable places to stay along the St. Lawrence River or the Rideau Lakes region was difficult. I simply wanted a short drive from the 1000 Islands, NY, and a quiet place to enjoy summer near water to ride, write, read and relax. When an Airbnb host offered me pricing flexibility in Westport, I was thrilled to book a month.

Native American artifacts have been found on the site of the Westport Spring, but early mills and businesses weren't built before the early 1800s. It is a lovely little village of nearly 700 residents, though it's anyone's guess what the summer population is with seasonal cottages and weekenders.

For me, it was too close to the border (less than 2 hours) as at least 20% of the visitors were from the States. In fact, it felt too much like the USA. The cycling was disappointing as most roads are without paved shoulders, many are narrow with blind corners, and all have high-speed drivers.

However, once out of their cars, people are friendly and chatty. With the exception of my host (see The Psych Ward), I enjoyed the company of many Canadians for hours here and there when spending time by the lakes.

A real shock was the cost of living versus my last visit to Canada in 2022. Even with the 25-30% exchange rate, fuel ($6.40 CAD) and food ($11 CAD for Cheerios) are outrageously priced. I did not have conversations regarding the economy, though it appeared that people have money to spend on boats, restaurants, SUVs, and more.

So, this was definitely not the trip I had imagined (do read on) but every day continues to be a unique experience.

On the Psych Ward

When I arrived to Tim's house 3-4 minutes early on Day One, he instantly looked at his watch, gave me a stern look, and was obviously rattled. Yet, my room and bath were ready, and he was relaxed moments later.

His profile says "people tell me I exercise too much". At breakfast the very next morning, my SpEd teacher training kicked in as I observed a man who cannot sit and focus for any length of time. He fills his days as much as possible with yardwork, side-jobs and sports, but he does Airbnb as much for the time with people as for the money.

I lasted 16 days before I questioned his opinion on e-bike batteries vs. the research (God forbid!). He lost it, jumped up, started pacing and said, "you have a bad attitude" at least three times. Actually, I had had enough of managing this lost, angry child.

It took a few days of playing outdoors, with evenings spent in my space, before Airbnb sent a refund and I found a campsite. During this time, Tim demanded I "report my comings and goings while at his house" via messaging. Control issues.

Having left without a word, he posted a scathing review of me, yet somehow talked Airbnb into removing the review I wrote warning other women. Hm.

He's a sad man with no one who will be honest with him. Too bad he's not a sad, kind man, though.

As I peruse the photos, it’s incredible that I spent just 4 days in the St Lawrence River area of New York. While I didn’t feel all that busy, I do feel like I had a big adventure. It’s scenic, there’s wide open sky and sea, the River is extremely accessible, and most everyone is friendly and chatty.
My agenda was to camp, bike, and take a boat tour; all of which I accomplished, thank you. What surprised me is the unique atmosphere and the welcoming locals and visitors. It is so beautiful here and people are happy to be here.
Don’t get the impression that it was Pleasantville 100% of the time, of course. Cedar Point State Park was packed for the 4th of July week and the site set-up was not to my liking. The bike route along the main road is a faux experience -- signed and dangerous. Luckily, I’ve been at this long enough to have creative solutions to sleep and to ride.
So, the Thousand Islands. There are actually 1,864 of them in the St. Lawrence River that are equally shared by the USA and Canada. In the late 19th century, it was a retreat for the elite, and now nearly 80% of the islands are inhabited though the area remains open for outdoor fun.
Most of my time was spent in the village of Clayton that is built on a peninsula jutting into the River. Settled in 1822 as a river port for lumbering and shipbuilding, it then became a commercial center for nearby farmers and the growing influx of tourists. It also offers museums and galleries, an Arts Center, a historic Opera House, and of course, restaurants and shops.
As planned, I jumped on a Clayton Boat Tour to peruse the Islands more closely and to visit the famous Boldt Castle on Heart Island. George Boldt came to the U.S. in 1864 from Prussia with little but confidence, yet eventually became manager and profit-shared in the Waldorf-Astoria. Boldt Castle, a 7-story, 120-room granite home was designed for his wife who passed before its completion. He then walked away, and following a fire and 70+ years of abandonment, the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority began property renovations in 1977. Quite a success story, love story and never-ending project.
I’m in disbelief that this was my first visit to the Thousand Islands and wish to return. At the moment I’m surrounded by the Rideau Lakes region of Canada.

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A Parallel Existence, II

Along the St. Lawrence

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