On the Northern Neck

​With an Auto Train ticket in hand, I inched a bit further west into Virginia in mid-October -– less than a two-hour drive. I’d originally planned to put my tent up along the Potomac River but absurd camping fees changed my mind. This was quite a blessing in disguise as overnight temperatures then dropped into the 30s el pronto.

Life took me to the small town of Woodford for a cabin without plumbing but with one electric plug and a portable heater. It was quite cozy though I was definitely wide awake for the early morning walk for the first cup of coffee. The neighborhood was as quiet as can be, the host was a charming, outdoorsy woman, and the narrow country roads were cautiously bikable.

Most of my free time was spent 10 minutes up the road in Bowling Green, a spot where I’d spent an hour or two on a 2010 bike adventure. The town is actually the birthplace of thoroughbred horse racing in North America as the Hoomes family, who were granted land by the Crown in 1669, imported the first thoroughbred racehorses and were avid breeders. It’s a sweet place with an active Main Street and about 1200 folks, but geographically it’s at too many crossroads (the intersection of routes 301, 207 and 2).

​My first day in town I was enamored with the friendly, chatty people, as well as the availability of hot water and a flush toilet. It’s true. A few days later, I was at the Harvest Festival greeting familiar faces and debating crab bisque or crab cakes. Good choice all around.  

Yes, the Potomac River
I’ve had my eye on Colonial Beach, Virginia for a year or two as an Airbnb listing caught my attention. The owner is a retired Teacher/Librarian and his description is warm and welcoming. As circumstances go, he’s in Texas meeting his grandchild, but his partner has been taking good care of me.

Colonial Beach is just 2.8 square miles in total area, yet the town's two-and-a-half miles of beaches are the second longest in Virginia. It’s a unique place of about 4,000 people that’s bounded by the Potomac River to the east and Monroe Bay to the west. While I didn’t play tourist (too much), it’s also the birthplace of George Washington and James Monroe.

An interesting fact is that the land along the Potomac is Virginia but the River is Maryland which continues to create interesting circumstances such as “the infamous oyster wars” from 1865-1959, and today, “the Riverboat on the Potomac” (read: casino cruise).

Nevertheless, none of this interfered with an enjoyable time here on two feet and two wheels as I admired the views, the small beach cottages and the remaining 19th century architecture. People are friendly, and along my bike route I counted no less than 10 Little Library boxes; pausing at each and every one while pondering trades.

In the morning I return to driving mode for what I hope will be a 1.5 hour trek to the train station.