I’ve been in place for so long that it’s difficult to know where to begin. Originally, I was to stay two weeks in Jonesport, Maine but making a connection pushed it to three. During this time, I’ve seen perhaps five sunny days so I’m pretty well ready to move on from the coast. Unpredictable deep fog comes and goes across the area creating dangerous visibility for biking on narrow roadways, and slippery conditions on rocky hiking trails. This has had me discovering the ins and outs of every pathway in town on foot and reading books galore from the library sale; yet I’m feeling quite sluggish in body and mind. Thankfully, I’ve been sharing a house with a wonderful group of people (and two dogs who never bark) during most of the past few weeks: a quiet, young man in the Coast Guard here, an older gent pondering Maine homesteading, and a 30-something gal who has just begun roaming. It’s been good to have conversations with people who are also trying to define “home,” and who are grappling with the same concerns of climate change, the cost-of-living, political divisions, and geographic options. Now thoughts of communal living no longer feel out of the question. Jonesport is a fishing and lobstering town of nearly 1,400 people about 50 miles south of the Canadian border. Take the bridge across Moosabec Reach and you land on Beals Island; while continuing south brings you to a gorgeous nature preserve on Great Wass Island. Fact: There is no other town named Jonesport in the entire United States. Visit townofjonesport.com for details on its interesting history. My story continues via photos!
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While Lake Champlain remains on my summer list, I was a little sad to say farewell to my kind housemate Carol and her pets I’d grown accustomed to, so it was good that I’d planned a brief stop to regroup at a known New Hampshire hostel. I had both an active and restful few days at the base of the White Mountains enjoying familiar and new places and faces before hitting the road into Maine. The Volunteer Option In April 2013, I had my first WorkAway experience in Ghent, Belgium, and there is no doubt in my mind that this trip launched what is now my decade-long journey on the road. While it’s been 5 years since my last WorkAway in Arnaudville, Louisiana, my current Airbnb appealed to me for many of the same reasons I initially volunteered. Staying on budget is nearly impossible so juggling sleeping arrangements has become a craft. This is one reason I opted to do a “rustic, simple, funky barn space” for $16/night and two hours of daily work. Yet price is not the only reason, as the host sounded so interesting, and this coastal area of Maine is new to me. So, here I am, halfway through an experience in Surry with easy access to gorgeous bays offering views of Acadia. I love the smell of the sea. My private room is at least 5 times the size of my tent with a shared kitchenette, loo and outdoor shower. Alas, the upstairs studio is empty, so the space is all mine. It’s comfy with electricity and wifi but plumbing does not exist. The loo is a compost toilet and there’s two cisterns to fill – washing and drinking water (and don’t forget to empty the catch bucket!). I’m somewhere between the indoor life and camping, and sleeping peacefully from dusk to dawn. Work-wise, it’s outdoor labor – exterior painting and garden weeding – neither creating stress or strain except when inaccurate weather forecasts bring surprises. My host, Nancy is a 10th generation Mainer who is soft-spoken and thankful for the help. She is also quite busy, so our conversations are minutes here and there, though I hope we have time to sit together before the 10 days pass. She has done years of Zen Buddhist training in Asia, has been teaching meditation for nearly 50 years, and has traveled extensively. This past Sunday I was able to enjoy a group sitting at the Morgan Bay Zendo, conveniently located across the road. While biking is difficult (narrow, winding, shoulder-less roads), I’m doing my best pedaling along the neck when the pavement is dry, enjoying walks on the forested trails to the bays, and appreciating the oh-so-little development – a general store, a lobster shack, a gallery or two. If living on the road for nearly a decade has taught me anything, it’s to be open to, and as prepared as possible for whatever comes my way. Yet, nothing could have prepared me for the past month of challenges and sorrows. When I arrived, I had a major auto issue to resolve, was pondering a home base in Vermont, and had a number of family gatherings on the calendar. With help in oh-so-many ways, the Element appears ready to go another 200,000 miles, and I am breathing an enormous sigh of relief. However, it’s been a far more difficult Spring than I could have envisioned by the unexpected loss of two dear friends, topped off by unnecessary family abuse. Thankfully, I had committed to a two-month rental and have had time in a comfortable place to process, react, and rejuvenate. The Original Plan When I booked my Vermont stay, the thought was that I would be house hunting in the area for a place to call home for most of the year. Let me just admit that I was definitely naive about weather, population growth, and the cost-of-living here. Oddly enough, this is the third time I “almost moved to Vermont” in the past 35 years, but it just doesn’t seem to be the place for me to homestead. Honestly, it’s been interesting to live the indoor life for this long a period of time, and being in a college town definitely has its benefits! Besides biking and trail hiking, I’ve enjoyed wonderful museums, incredible libraries, a welcoming meditation sangha, and impressive live music. It's also helped me generate a "what's important list" as I look to the near future. In about two weeks, I’ll head out for a few more stops in New England states. I’m almost ready. If you've been with me a while, you may recall my visit to Addison County early last summer. It was 10 nights of "camping by Lake Champlain" that had me questioning how I'd never enjoyed this still semi-rural area between Vergennes, Vermont and Crown Point, New York. I'm now "boarding near Middlebury" while asking myself, "Could I live here 7 or 8 months of the year?". Yes, I already know that January through March is out of the question, and I'm certainly not through roaming elsewhere on the planet. Culturally, Vermont is my #1 choice for an address in the States, and the easy access to Canada is quite appealing, too. So, I'm actually committed to testing out day-to-day life here with a two-month stint living in East Middlebury with a native Vermonter. The Village of East Middlebury's earliest settlement dates from 1775, as settlers were drawn here by its location at the west end of the trail over the Green Mountains and along the Middlebury River. Current population: 437. With the college town of Middlebury just 4 miles west, there's much activity nearby. I'll save stories for another day, but I have been perusing small towns by bike and foot. Let me just say that 25 miles on the seat in Addison County is worth 50 at this point in time! As the trek north continues, I’m attempting to adapt to temperature changes from 86 to 26 in a matter of 10 days. Yes, my first week in Whitehall, NY has been quite a rude awakening. Each day begins with my hand upon the window, then shaking my head. This small town of nearly 2,500 residents initially attracted me for its affordability, as well as access to the Adirondacks, the Empire State Trail, and Western Vermont. Whitehall is in a valley at the southern end of Lake Champlain and has been declared the “Birthplace of the US Navy” based on Revolutionary War activity (though Philly may argue this point). So, mountains, a cycling trail, history, and spitting distance to my favorite New England state. All of that said, I plead ignorance. Beyond my definition of “spring weather”, the hiking trails were far too icy and/or muddy to hike, and the Empire State Trail in this area is a death wish, as it’s busy roadway not canalway. This meant daily driving to destinations that I did enjoy. Bottom line – Whitehall is a pass-through town for me. |
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March 2024
AuthorCyclist, writer, teacher, avid reader, bike/ped advocate, nomad, pie lover Categories |